Cart
0
Cold hands are slow hands. Below zero, fingers lose strength and feeling within minutes, and that is when screws get dropped, tools slip and accidents happen. A good winter work glove has to do two things that pull in opposite directions: keep the hand warm and still let the worker feel what they are holding. Here is how to find the right balance.
EN 511: the cold protection rating
Gloves tested for cold carry a snowflake pictogram and a three-digit EN 511 code:
| Digit | Test | Scale |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Convective cold — insulation against cold air and wind | 0–4 |
| 2 | Contact cold — holding cold materials such as steel, rebar or frozen blocks | 0–4 |
| 3 | Water penetration | 0 or 1 |
For example, EN 511 – 120 means low convective insulation, good contact-cold protection and not waterproof. A 1 as the third digit means the glove stopped water for at least 30 minutes in the test. Many winter gloves are not EN 511 tested at all and are simply sold as “winter” or “insulated” — they can still be warm, but you are relying on the lining description rather than a test result.
Linings: what keeps your hands warm
- Acrylic terry loop: a thick knitted lining used in most latex-coated winter gloves. Warm, flexible and affordable — the standard choice for general site work.
- Fleece and flannel: soft and warm, common in leather winter gloves. Comfortable for long shifts in dry cold.
- Thinsulate and similar synthetic insulation: high warmth for its thickness, so the glove stays less bulky. Good for very cold days and work that still needs dexterity.
- Waterproof membrane: an inner layer that keeps snow and slush out. Essential for wet concrete, ground works and sleet.
Coating and outer material
Latex-coated winter gloves give the best grip on rough, wet and icy materials such as blocks, timber and pipes. Leather (goatskin, cowhide, pigskin) is more durable for heavy handling and holds its shape in the cold. Synthetic leather palms are lighter and dry faster. Fully dipped gloves are the most waterproof but less breathable — hands sweat on hard physical work, and wet hands get cold.
Matching the glove to the job
- Bricklaying, block work, scaffolding: latex-coated glove with acrylic lining — grip and warmth at a low price, easy to replace often.
- Ground works, concrete, sleet: waterproof glove or a fully coated model, EN 511 water digit 1.
- Rebar and steel: look at the contact-cold digit; leather or thick latex with good EN 388 tear resistance.
- Installation and finishing outdoors: a thinner insulated glove with Thinsulate so fingers keep their feeling.
- Machine operators and drivers: leather winter glove with fleece lining — warm in the cab, durable on the outside.
Practical tips for winter crews
- Give each worker two pairs and let one dry overnight. A damp glove loses most of its insulation.
- Do not size up too much. A little room helps warm air stay around the fingers, but a glove that is too big reduces grip. Glove sizes follow EN 21420 — see our size guide.
- Check the mechanical rating too: winter gloves also carry an EN 388 code. Our EN 388 guide explains the numbers.
Winter gloves at TrustGear
Our winter work gloves range covers latex-coated, leather, synthetic-leather and waterproof models, with the lining and EN ratings listed on every product page. Pair them with an insulated winter work jacket, or build a full winter kit per worker with the kit builder. Companies with an EU VAT number can buy without VAT and receive an invoice.