Work Gloves Buying Guide: EN 388, Nitrile vs Latex, Cut Levels, Winter and Welding Gloves

Work gloves wear out faster than any other PPE, so most crews buy them again and again. Choosing well saves money and hands: the right glove grips the material, protects against the actual risk and is comfortable enough that nobody takes it off. This buying guide explains how to read the EN 388 code, what nitrile, latex, PU and leather do, which cut level you need, how to pick winter and welding gloves, and which glove suits which job.

How to read EN 388 on work gloves

Almost every work glove sold in the EU carries a shield pictogram with a code such as 4131X or 4X42C. It comes from EN 388, the standard for mechanical risks. Each position always means the same thing:

A 0 means the glove was tested and scored below level 1; an X means the test was not done or does not apply. Example: 4131X is a typical handling glove – very high abrasion, but no ISO cut result. 4X42C is a real cut-resistant glove with ISO cut level C. The puncture test uses a probe, not a fine needle. Full explanation in EN 388 explained.

Materials: nitrile, latex, PU or leather?

Most site gloves are knitted gloves with a coated palm. The coating decides how the glove behaves:

• Latex – natural rubber with very good grip on rough and wet surfaces. A crinkle finish holds blocks, bricks and wet timber. It degrades with oil and fuel, and some people are allergic to natural latex.
• Nitrile – synthetic rubber without natural latex proteins. It handles oil and grease and has good abrasion resistance. Smooth nitrile can slip when wet; foam nitrile keeps grip on a thin film of oil, and sandy nitrile grips wet, oily parts.
• PU (polyurethane) – very thin, with the best fingertip feel. The usual choice for cut gloves, electrical and finishing work; it wears faster on rough concrete and blocks.
• Leather – goatskin is soft with good feel, cowhide is thicker for heavy handling, split leather is used in welding gloves. Leather holds its shape in the cold but loses grip when soaked.

Palm-coated gloves let the back of the hand breathe; fully coated gloves keep water and dirt out but get warm quickly. More in nitrile, latex, PU or leather.

Cut-resistant gloves: levels A to F

For cut protection, look at the letter in position 5, not the second digit. Modern cut fibres dull the blade in the old Coup test, so the second digit is often X. The ISO 13997 test measures the force needed to cut through the material:

The use column is practical guidance, not part of the standard. Do not give everyone level F: higher levels often mean a thicker, stiffer glove, and a glove that is taken off protects nobody. A higher gauge (18G, 21G) means a thinner knit and better dexterity. Cut-resistant does not mean cut-proof. See which ISO cut level you need.

Winter work gloves: EN 511 and linings

Below zero, cold fingers lose strength and feeling, and that is when tools slip. Gloves tested for cold carry a snowflake pictogram and a three-digit EN 511 code: convective cold (0–4), contact cold (0–4) and water penetration (0 or 1). For example, EN 511 – 120 means low convective insulation, good contact-cold protection and not waterproof. Many winter gloves are not EN 511 tested at all; they can still be warm, but you rely on the lining description.

• Acrylic terry lining with latex coating – warm, flexible and affordable for general site work.
• Fleece or flannel in leather gloves – comfortable in dry cold, good for drivers and machine operators.
• Thinsulate-type insulation – warm without bulk, for work that still needs dexterity.
• Waterproof membrane – for wet concrete, groundwork and sleet.

Give each worker two pairs and let one dry overnight – a damp glove loses most of its insulation. Read how to choose winter work gloves.

Welding gloves: EN 12477 Type A or Type B

EN 388 alone is not enough for welding. Welding gloves are tested to EN 12477:

• Type A – higher heat and spatter protection, thicker leather, often lined. For MIG/MAG, stick welding and heavy fabrication; split leather, a long cuff of at least 15 cm and Kevlar stitching.
• Type B – thinner, softer leather (usually goatskin) and better dexterity. The normal choice for TIG and fine work.

Welding gloves also carry an EN 407 heat rating; contact heat and small splashes matter most. Replace gloves that are hard and shiny from heat or soaked in oil, and never weld with wet gloves. More in Type A vs Type B welding gloves.

Quick table: which work gloves for which job

Checklist before you order

• List the tasks: handling, oil, sharp edges, cold, welding.
• Check the EN 388 code on the product page – for cut protection, read the letter.
• Plan two or three glove types per crew instead of one "best" glove for everyone.
• Measure hand circumference around the knuckles – glove sizes follow EN 21420. A glove that is too big reduces grip and catches in tools.
• If anyone reacts to latex, switch them to nitrile or PU.
• Order enough pairs: gloves wear out fastest of all PPE.

Where to order work gloves

Browse all work gloves – every product page lists the EN 388 code in the specifications, so you can compare models side by side. Glove sizes are in our size guide. For the PPE rules on site, see PPE on Estonian construction sites, and for a full set per worker use the ready workwear kits. TrustGear is an online shop run by an Estonian company, and we deliver across Estonia – Tallinn, Tartu, Pärnu and elsewhere – in 8–16 days.

FAQ

Which is better, nitrile or latex gloves?

For dry, rough materials such as blocks and timber, latex usually grips better. For oil, grease and installation work, nitrile lasts longer. Many crews keep both.

My gloves show X in the second position. Are they untested for cut?

No. X there usually means the Coup test was not valid because the blade dulled. Look at the letter at the end – that is the cut result to compare.